Follow these safety tips to protect against CO poisoning: Never use a generator indoors, including in homes, garages, basements, crawl spaces, and other enclosed or partially-enclosed areas, even with ventilation. Opening doors and windows or using fans will not prevent CO build-up in the home. Follow the instructions that come with your generator. Locate the unit outdoors and away from doors, windows, and vents that could allow CO to come indoors. Install battery-operated CO alarms or plug-in CO alarms with battery back-up in your home, according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The CO alarms should be certified to the requirements of the latest safety standards for CO alarms (UL 2034, IAS 6-96, or CSA 6.19.01). Test your CO alarms frequently and replace dead batteries.
For bathrooms, ASHRAE 62.99 recommends that you exhaust 25 cubic feet per minute (cfm) with a continuously operating fan, or 50 cfm with a fan that you turn on and off as needed. Note that you might incorporate a bath fan into your overall ventilation strategy.
Radon testing device(s) should be placed in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level (such as a basement), which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. The test should be conducted in a room to be used regularly (like a family room, living room, playroom, den or bedroom); do not test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway. Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use of the home. A buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and agree on the test location to avoid any misunderstanding. Their decision should be clearly communicated to the person performing the test.
Whether you test for radon yourself or hire a state-certified tester or a privately certified tester, all radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A longer period of testing is required for some devices.
If you are planning any major renovations, such as converting an unfinished basement area into living space, it is especially important to test the area for radon before you begin. If your test results indicate an elevated radon level, radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of the renovation. Major renovations can change the level of radon in any home. Test again after the work is completed.
Remember that extreme temperatures can build in an attic without proper ventilation, especially with a dark colored roof.
Attic ventilation is critical for not only summer cooling performance but also the longevity of the structure of your house.
Gable vents help heat escape and help keep condensation from forming in the attic during winter months.
The use of ridge vent has increased greatly during the past ten years and when used with a soffit vent or vented drip edge, it is a very effective means of venting rafter bays, especially in cathedral ceiling areas. An air space in the rafter bay must be provided for full airflow. There are various styrofoam vent channels that, installed in the rafter bay, keep the insulation from fully filling the bay, to allow for air space. This can help keep condensation from forming on exposed roof nail ends and dripping onto the ceiling materials below during winter months.
When building a house or addition with a crawl space underneath, make sure to install a vapor barrier to prevent moisture infiltration into the floor system.