The popularity of video and audio podcasts has drawn attention to the value of good acoustics and the importance of soundproofing the space you record in. Large, ‘echo-y’ rooms make the audio hard to understand and difficult to listen to. In addition to the sound that moves to the camera directly, other sound waves travel from the point of origin out to reflective surfaces and back again. These reflections mix with the direct sound and distort the sound’s clarity. The solution is to use sound-absorbing materials to capture reflections and prevent them from being recorded during the podcast. When properly installed, these specially designed sound-absorbent materials trap reflected sound waves, resulting in a clearer audio for your podcast. To achieve these results, we installed Owens Corning QuietZone® Noise Control Batts and SOLSERENE® Fabric Ceiling System to the ceiling above the workspace, to the wall behind the workspace and to three movable sound absorbing panels, which can be rolled into place, as needed. Here’s how to do it.
Difficulty: 2 of 5
Replacing torn or damaged screens in an aluminum or wooden window or door is an easy project.
When using a utility knife, always cut away from your body.
– Brad nails
– Brush, small
– Pry bar
– Replacement screen
– Spline roller
– Staple gun
– Utility knife
Step 1: Aluminum application. Remove the spline from the aluminum screen.
To remove the damaged screen from an aluminum window or door, start by removing the spline that holds the screen in place. This plastic tubing holds the screen tightly into channels that run along all four sides of the screen boarder. Use a screwdriver to pry up the tubing, and gently pull it out to release the screen.
Pry the spline out with a screwdriver.
Step 2: Clean the channels.
Use a small brush to clean the dirt and debris out of the channels.
Brush the dirt out of the channels.
Step 3: Lay the new screen in place.
Lay new screening over the frame and cut out a new section that extends beyond the required size by at least 2 inches on each side.
There should be an additional 2 inches of screen extending beyond each side of the screen frame.
Step 4: Trim the corners.
Use scissors to trim each corner at a 45-degree angle. This will make it easier to install the new screen.
Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle.
Step 5: Install the new spline.
You should use new spline for your replacement screen. Make sure the tubing is the right size for your channels. With the screen in place, use a spline roller to press the spline and the screen down into the channel. Continue for all four sides of the screen. Be sure to hold the screen tight with one hand while rolling with the other. You can always pull the spline out and start again if the screen is not installed tight enough.
Use the spline roller to press the screen and spline into the channel.
Step 6: Press the corners into place.
Use the end of a screwdriver to press the spline into place at each of the corners.
Use a screwdriver at the corners.
Step 7: Trim away the excess screen.
Use a utility knife to cut away the excess screen outside the spline. Be sure to cut away from your body. With the excess cut away, your repaired aluminum screen is ready to be installed.
Cut away the excess outside the spline.
Step 8: Wooden application. Remove the molding and screen.
In a wooden screen application, you will first need to remove any molding or quarter round that is in place. Use a small pry bar to gently lift the molding that covers the edge of the screen. Work slowly and gently so you do not damage the molding. Remove any staples or tacks, and then lift the screen up and away.
Use a pry bar to lift the molding off.
Step 9: Set the new screen in place.
Use a small brush to sweep away any dirt or debris. Measure and cut the replacement screen, and set in place. There should be 2 or 3 inches of excess screen extending beyond the side of each edge.
Set the new screen in place.
Step 10: Staple the bottom section in place.
Use a staple gun to staple the bottom edge of the screen in place.
Staple the bottom edge to the frame.
Step 11: Use clamps to bend the frame.
To get the screen tight for the rest of the sides, place a small block of wood under the top edge of the door or window. Clamp the centers of both sides of the frame so that the frame bends by a small amount. Do not bend the frame too much or the screen with rip out.
Clamp at the center of both sides to bend the frame slightly.
Step 12: Staple the top edge of the screen.
With the frame slightly bent, staple the top edge of the screen to the top of the frame. Release the clamps. When you do, the frame will straighten, pulling the screen tight.
Staple the top edge.
Step 13: Staple the sides and trim the excess.
Pull the sides of the screen tight and staple them to the frame. When the screen has been stapled on all four sides, use a utility knife to trim away the excess screen.
Pull the sides tight before stapling.
Step 14: Re-attach the trim.
Tack the trim back into place. You might be able to reuse the old brads by tapping the tips back with a hammer until they are flush with the molding. Then, nail the molding back into place. If you prefer, you can use new brads of the same length. With the trim re-attached, the wooden screen is repaired and ready for use.
Re-use the old brads to nail the molding into place.