Hi again, Dee, Jason & anyone else who would like to use less power and water.
Jason, the reason a lot of folk are not happy with their tankless water heaters, is because the vendor/supplier didn't spend the time understanding the customer's needs. They just wanted the sale, and get out of there. We won't sell one if it doesn't fit the application.
We ask a lot of questions: Incoming water temp, which shower-head do you have (we supply a shower-head which allows 2.25gpm max, at 80psi)and do you have the necessary breaker space available in your panel. And, how many outlets would be used simultaneously (the more hot water needed at one time, needs more btu's, which means a more powerful heater).
We have very small units, and very big units, both electric & gas.
Electric units come in the power ranges of 9.5, 11, 14, 22 & 28kw (32,423btu-95,564btu). And gas units: 165, 185 & 235,000btu. (1.0 - 9.6gpm)
If you have 50 deg F cold water (normal for a well), I would install a 14 or 22kw unit just for a shower, and the 28kw unit for the whole house.
DISCLAIMER: Due to colder water temps up north, I always suggest a gas unit for whole-home use, unless high flows are not needed.
A neat thing about our electric units, is they have a pair of low voltage terminals (12v) which may be connected to a 15 minute mechanical timer. It won't turn the water off, just the power to the elements AAAAAAARG. The terminals are intended for smart-home energy management. EG, if a home has a relatively small breaker panel, or if you are billed for peak demand electricity (does that make sense?) and, when the water heater is being used, the central AC unit would turn off for the duration. Very simple stuff.
Did all that make sense :)
Have a great Sunday, all.
Brian in Swampland.
P.S. Our 2.25gpm shower-head feels like 4gpm, and at 40psi, only delivers 1.75gpm (very energy efficient) P.P.S. Bob V. has used both our electric & gas units on his shows.