> Ask a Question > Fix It Forum > Sears Heating
Login | Register

Sears Heating

Posted by Nick on May 24th, 1998 12:27 AM

I am currently employing Sears Heating for my new Heating system and it has been really frustrating. In New York, Sears contracts with a local Plumbing SubContractor to do the work. So you are at the mercy of the work ethic of the independent contractor who shows up, or doesn't show up, does a very sloppy job, as the case may be. At first I contracted with Sears ( High Priced ) for two reasons : It was a name assuming problem free installation - and I really liked the salesperson' and secondly, they offered me ( and approved ) a very attractive financing. Then a representative from the SubContractor comes to look at the job and schedule the day of the installation, and then : The crew they sent is a mess : At first they show-up late with a no name junk van ( the kind of van you can find in a junkyard for parts ) Before that, a new boiler and water heater had arrived from the supply house ( I signed the delivery slip ) - then at the first sight of the crew I had that weird feeling that something will go wrong ( you know the feeling ! ! ). I am not a plumber but I have a little common sense and at first, I wanted to stop these sloppy people from working in my house ( the way they worked the installation ) but I could not get hold of the guy who sold me the job at the first place. No 1. I had to fight with the installers to place the boiler in the concrete blocks as I had been promised. No 2. then I realized that in the contract I am getting a KENMORE gas boiler ( 140000 BTU ) and a 40 G RUDD water heater. In Front of me I have a DUNKIRK gas boiler ( 140000 BTU ) and a 40 G RHEEM water heater. No.3 the way they making the sweet connections to the existing lines ( I have two zone valves one pump - the return lines connected to the the pump by one valve only - no drain valve ) At first I tried really hard to be understanding and flexible by getting assured that they know what they are doing. The job has to be completed in one day, however the electrician to connect the thermostats and the electrical connections ( I've been told ) had also disappeared. After a lot of attempts to spoke to the Sears Salesperson and trying really hard to be a nice quy,two days after, the electrician connects the system, I have heat in my property, problems start as follows : According to the recommendations in the manufacturers instruction manual the following conditions still exist in this new heating system: Regarding the Rheem Gas Water Heater : 1) Vent connectors at the chimney is not at least 6"from combustible material. ( It is approx. 1" inch from the boiler's room ceiling ). 2) Cold water line adjoining the water heater in the cold water inlet is hot. 3) Body of the water heater is damaged in the position where the gas supply line is coming close to the insulation. 4) Manual gas shut-off valve is located at 18" inches from the floor instead of approx. 5 feet from above the floor lever. Regarding the Dunkirk Gas Hot Water Boiler / Model # PVWB-5D 1) The steel wire ties that keep the burners in place during shipping are still in place. - preventing the cleaning or servicing of the burners. ( cannot remove burners for cleaning ) at a future date. 2) Boiler's jacket top panel is off level - to check to see if boiler's cast iron sections are also off-level as well. 3) Boiler temperature ( when the burners are not running ) is not consistent with the boiler's gauge reading. - Reading shows 215 - 220 F at the gauge. ( Aquastat is set to 180 F ). 4) The return lines of the 1st and 2nd Zone are joined together leading to one discharge valve and one cut off valve instead of installing the valves at each zone separately. 5) The backflow switch was never supplied neither installed. 6) Manual gas shut-off valve is located at 18" inches from the floor instead of approx.. 5 feet from above the floor lever. 7) Boiler's jacket frond panel is way TOO HOT in comparison with the boilers rest of the body (Only when the burners ARE NOT RUNNING ) . My problem does not stops here. After a week, the same plumbers came back and changed the water heater's vent location, the return lines of the 1st and 2nd zone with separate valves and last, they supplied and installed the backflow switch ( as it was written in the contract : 1 backflow ). Then after I stydying the manual than came with the boiler itself, I find to my surprise that the rollout switch, the spill switch, the damper and the relief valve are standard equipment of the boiler but are written in the contract as extras and as separate components, alltogether. I again called the quy's supervisor at Sears and let him know what was going on. I tried not to let my emotions get the better of me, because it really pisses me off when I feel like I'm paying a lot of money only to get jerked around,and taken advantage of when I try to be a nice guy. Has anyone else had similar experiences with contractors, Sears, good or bad experiences ? Any advice for how to handle these less-than-reliable contractors ? Thanks Please also send me your commends at :
Update ( 25 days later ) : The plumbers had to come back a third time because at the new connections at the return lines, one cooper connection was bleading ( dropping ) water and the wall close to that connection was wet. ( I put a piece of paper under the cooper connections to find the dripping - so small was ). Your comments will greatly apprecieted. Please tell me If I am.....because I fill very stupid

Was this post helpful? Yes: or No:

Topic Follow-ups:

About  | FAQ  | Contact  | Sitemap  | Privacy Policy  | Terms of Use  | Help

© 2017 Renovate Your World LLC