Haven't worked with the dipping and stripping. He is right about removing the glass before stripping, the heat guns can cause cracks in the glass from heat stress.
Seems a shame to do all the work of removal, stripping, cleaning, priming, and glazing, then not replacing the sash cords. If you are lucky, there are some screws on the sides of the window frames that hold a small wooden panel in place, remove the screw and panel to get at the window weights. If you are not so lucky, you may have to CAREFULLY remove the trim from the sides of the window to get at the weights. I have also heard it is a good idea to apply some linseed oil to the sashes in the areas where glazing will be applied will keep the old wood from pulling all the moisture from the glazing and causing it to fail.
A properly operating window is a thing of beauty. The prop stick method will work, but every time you open or close the window it will try to jam up and get out of square in the opening, and you will be cussing yourself for not fixing the weights and beating on the window to get it shut, which doesn't help your attitude towards your old house, and it won't help the sash, glazing compound or glass either.
My windows have the regular weights, plus small T shape metal strip that fits into a groove on the sides and bottom of the sash to help it seal up, and it is totally invisible with the windows shut. Seems to be pretty tight.
Windows are one of those projects that everyone (me too) wished took 1/10 of the time and 1/10 of the effort, but there just isn't a way to cut corners and get a quality job.