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My thoughts

Posted by Jim on January 29th, 2001 09:44 PM
In reply to Cement board by Susie on January 29th, 2001 03:42 PM [Go to top of thread]

Here is the proper installation for concrete board.
For do-it-yourselfers, the best substitute for a mud bed underlayment is concrete backerboard.

Backerboard has a solid concrete core and is faced on both sides with fiberglass. It can't be damaged by water which makes it ideal for bathroom and kitchen installations.

Cutting backerboard is a lot like cutting drywall, except that backerboard is much harder.

Using a framing square, score your cut line a few times. You can use a regular utility knife for this, but you'll go through a lot of blades. A special carbide-blade cutter works better.

TIP: If you're using a utility knife, shorten the blade to keep it from breaking easily.

Break the board by applying pressure until it snaps apart along the score line. You'll probably have to cut through the fiberglass on the back also.

Backerboard is installed much like a plywood subfloor except that you also need to "set" it on to the subfloor using the same type of thinset adhesive (See Choosing Adhesives) that you use to set tiles.

Use the flat side of a notched trowel to spread the thinset out where the sheet of backerboard will be set. Then use the notched side of the trowel to comb out the adhesive. Secure the sheets with galvanized nails about every 8 inches.

Stagger the joints of the backerboard so they don't line up with one another or fall directly over the joints of the subfloor.

Leave about 1/8" space between the sheets of backerboard.

Fill these gaps with tile adhesive using a taping knife. Embed fiberglass joint tape into the adhesive to cover the seams, then cover that with more adhesive. The idea here is to make the joint resemble the material as closely as possible.

Also unless you have some tile that I am not aware of, thinset mortar should be fine, unless specified other wise by the supplier.

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