I agree with Chris and I tend to take the tried and true traditional approach unless the new method is tried and true. I have see basements done both ways and some of it depends upon budget, wall conditions, moisture conditions, insulation needs, and how it will look for resale value(you want it to look right when done and not look like a cheap fix), etc.
2x4 will allow an air space behind the stud wall and batt insulation in case of moisture coming though the wall. If you have wet walls, then gluing insulation on the concrete walls isn't good. Nailing furring strips (unless glued only) will allow for a place for the wall to crack and moisture to come through. 2x4's also have room for running extra electrical, phone, and tv cable later.
Get a couple helpers and string line each wall from top to bottom using a half-inch spacer at each end. Inspect the spacing along the wall at the different heights. Usually, concrete forms, and even blocks, will leave waves in the wall that you don't notice so much on cement but when you put up drywall and paint it, the wavy wall will show.
If you find you have a wavy wall, then find the place it sticks out the most and make a mark 4" from the wall. Do this on all of the walls. Then chalk line 2 of the walls on the floor on your mark and then find the corner and mark the corner. Check the corner with a framing square before snapping the chalk lines. Then work your way around the room. It may be hard to get exact sometimes. I would be more concerned with getting each wall straight than if your corner is a hair off of square.
Use a plumb bob at each corner to mark the upper floor joists and snap string lines across them or your bracing between joists if the wall ends up parallel to and in between floor joists. Then line up your 2x4 treated base plate on the floor line when you put up the wall and the top plate on the ceiling line above. Double check with level and square before fastening. Simple as pie (almost). Good luck with whatever you do.