First, what the pro shops use is a catalyzed product that is kind of like the really hot automotive/industrial paints. They then heat cure it. Can't remember the name of the DuPont product right now but out local bump shop tried it once and had their neighbors in an uproar and so were their painters. You have to be in a space suit, practically, to shoot the stuff and it is really important that the air intake be FAR removed from the paint booth vent. Their's wasn't far enough. The bump shop quit even thinking of using it.
There is, as you know, a difference between dust-free time and dry enough to walk on time. I did three coats of oil based poly in my dusty ole shop. This was on some stair treads. I found that if you could keep things relatively calm for an hour or so, you didn't have a problem.
Like anything where you are doing a top and bottom, I have this tendency to wipe off drips and the bottom of the nose had a tendency to get some. I found that I could come back in a couple of hours and slice off the drips with an X-acto knife or single edged razor blade real easily up to 8 hours later. But the tread surface was easily dry enough to handle and even to sand. Coating thickness obviously is a factor but I found that I couldn't brush on a really thin coat without too much thinning of the poly either. Didn't try spraying because I could only do 5 treads at a time because of space. As I recall, I cut the poly about 10% for the first coat and out of the can for the other 2 on that one.
A tip is to get a couple of empty quart cans at the home center for the excess poly that you always have. The oil based does get a skin on it eventually when you have a half can left over. It's better to put in in full quart cans where there is a lot less air. I use the same brand often so I have no problem keeping a quart that's thinned 10% and a quart with some talcum powder to use as a satin top coat. Gloss does work best for the first coats.