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Crown Moulding Installation Tip

Posted by Ben Walum on December 22nd, 1997 05:05 PM
In reply to STARTING A CROWN MOLDING PROJECT by Pepi Khara on November 11th, 1997 01:21 PM [Go to top of thread]

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Moderator Post:
> Mitre Cuts and Crown Molding by Handyman on 05/19/2005

First of all are you going to paint of stain the
moulding? If you are going to paint, buy paint grade
moulding (about $.70 /linear foot). There is not
reason to buy expensive clear moulding for a painted
finish. When I install Crown or Cove moulding I start by
determining which walls are the longest. I have a
project for example, that has two walls that
are 16' 6" long. For each wall, I would cut a 1'
piece of scrap moulding with a 16' piece at a
45 degree angle. Cut both pieces in the saw at the
same time (ends butted before you cut). Then I
very carefull align them so they are flat and glue
them together. When the glue dries, I double check
the wall measurements and cut them at 90 degree angles
Be sure not to assume each wall is the same length
because the room may be out of square. When you
attach the long strips to the wall it is critical
that the bottom of the moulding is at the same height
from the ceiling on the adjacent wall. For the two
adjoining walls, if mistakes are made, it is cheaper
to buy a short piece of you need to. Measure and cut
the moulding with the back of the moulding facing you.
and cut at a 45 degree angle to expose the profile.
Also before cutting attach a straint wooden strip
to the bed of your miter saw so that you have a
fence for the material to rest against as you cut.
This helps hold the back of the stock at a 90
degree angle for exact vertical alignment with
each cut. If you try to hold it by hand, you cannot
guarantee 90 degree positioning every time. This keeps
the cut from becoming a compound angle cut.
Now cut at a 45 degree angle to expose the
profile. Use a riffler file and a coping saw to
cut out the detail the riffler files are very fine
and allow you to fine time the the cut of the
file after making a rough cut with the coping saw.
It is very important that the adjoining pieces do
not fit tightly. You need a little bit of play for
wood movement in the framing of the house. There
can be enough movement in the walls with season
changes to crack the moulding.

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