Well, I have read the NOVEL answer lol and you have made some great points that I haven't even considered yet. I have some more questions inregards to a lot of things here if I may.
1. Now using the method of lift for the home in which you described do I still continue on with the pad of course and is the 3'x 3' 12 "D sufficient?
2. Footing, you suggest a minimum of 10" depth which I can agree on but if I place it over the existing footing what type of drainage tile should I use? Im sure I can get 10" form-a-drain but its going to be a task as to how to drain the water out and not in, any suggestions?
3. What size rebar would be sufficient for this process and at what lengths apart should they be placed? I was thinking 5bar at 4'H and 4' apart? and how can this benefit me if I go with cinder blocks or is it mainly for concrete walls? Do I simply fill in the cinder with mortar@ the applied areas of rebar?.
4.Have you ever seen or heard of preplaced formed (I say placed because of my old boss use to yell at me and say you don't pour concrete you place it lol) concrete walls? And would heavy gauged j bolts in the footing to secure it be a better method then slip forms?
Now i was considering to do this, place these performed walls up in a manner of 4' x 8' and bolt them together as i go completely around. ( know with this method i would use the Jack method listed above and not lift the home completely of the two walls but simple enough to knock out the interior wall safely and place these performed walls up in its place on the new interior footing. Now I feel using this method I can build my forms in the basement, place and do one section at a time. That would eliminate worries on tying in the brick with section building. I can get the specs on the performed walls from work because our shop is build intierly of these concrete walls. And for water woes im not to worried about this due to the fact my basement has never flooded from a rain storm or act of God ever, and the grade of this neighborhood is the highest in the city. As for cutting in joints for possible crack locations is almost avoided all together by the tie in points. ( oh I will also be sealing the exterior wall with a tar and 1/4" insulation).
Well, what do you think? Am I on to something here? As for the permits needed My wife is a real Estate gooroo she knows all the laws and permits needed in my area and if not we know where to go to get the info on them.