Step 1: Project overview.
The bottom of the window box is made from 1 X 8 stock, cut to whatever length you would like the box to be. The front and back of the box is made from 1 X 6 boards, and the supports on the ends of the box is made from 2 x 6s. The trim on the front and sides of the box is ripped from 1 x 6 stock and will be comprised of three pieces. There’s a cove molding of 3/4-inch by 1 1/2-inch, a 1/2-inch by 1/2-inch band molding and a 2 1/4-inch by 3 1/4-inch cap. Finally, there are four sets of corbels, made from 2 X 6 stock and cut to shape.
Western red cedar was chosen for its naturally resistant qualities.
Step 2: Cut the pieces and assemble the box.
Cut the pieces for the box to your desired length. Temporarily clamp the bottom, sides and ribs together.
Clamp the box together temporarily.
Step 3: Mark the location of the cross braces.
Use a spacer block to mark the location of the cross braces on the front and back of the box.
Mark the cross brace location.
Step 4: Drill pilot holes.
Use a tapered countersinking drill bit to drill pilot holes into the box sides and cross braces. Drill two evenly spaced holes for each side of each cross brace.
Drill one pilot hole for each screw.
Step 5: Fasten the box together.
Fasten the box together using 1 1/2-inch brass screws driven into each pilot hole.
Use 1 1/2-inch brass screws.
Step 6: Make the cove molding for the lower trim.
Use a router or router table to make cove molding out of 1 1/2-inch by 3/4-inch Western red cedar stock. Cut enough cove molding to cover the front and sides of the window box.
Use a routing table to make cove molding.
Step 7: Cut a 45-degree miter into the cove molding.
Using a miter saw, cut a 45-degree angle into both ends of the cove molding.
Use a miter saw to make the cut.
Step 8: Fasten the molding to the box.
Fasten the molding in place using stainless-steel, 1 1/4-inch brads. Space the brads about 5 inches apart.
Nail the molding in place with brads.
Step 9: Measure, cut and fasten the band molding in place.
Measure the length of cedar to be used as band molding. Make 45-degree cuts on either end of the molding using a miter saw. Fasten the band molding over the cove molding using brads.
Fasten the trim to the cove molding.
Step 10: Measure, cut and fasten the cove molding and band molding for the box sides.
Follow steps #6 to #9 to measure and cut the cove molding for the sides of the window box. Make a 45- degree miter cut on both ends of the cove molding. Fasten the cove molding to the sides with brads. Measure and cut the 1/2-inch trim, and fasten it in place over the cove molding.
Fasten the trim over the cove molding on the sides of the box.
Step 11: Attach the cap piece.
Finish the box trim by attaching the cap piece along the front and sides of the box.
Fasten the cap piece in place along the sides.
Step 12: Form the corbels.
The corbels will be cut from 2 X 6 western red cedar stock. Transfer the pattern from one corbel to another, and cut the piece using a band saw.
Cut the corbel from 2 X 6 western red cedar stock.
Step 13: Attach the flower box to the house.
The flower box will be installed using galvanized L-brackets. Screw the L-brackets into the studs behind the clapboard. Drive screws through the back side of the window box and into the studs to further secure the box.
Screw the L-brackets to the studs.
Step 14: Secure the corbels.
The corbels will be secured in place over the L-brackets. Position the corbel and drive screws through the bottom of the flower box and into the corbel. Continue for all the corbels. The western red cedar window box is ready for planting.
Drive screws through the bottom of the flower box and into each corbel.